Wednesday, September 30, 2009

Plantains

Plantains are a new favorite at our house. You can buy 6 for $1 at the Farmers Market. The trick is to make sure the skins turn totally black -- that's when they're ripe. If you try to use them too early, thinking they're like a banana, boy do you have a chore on your hands. Those skins do NOT come off easily and the fruit itself can be rock hard. This has tripped me up several times, and I still probably don't wait long enough for them to get fully ripe (and sweet). Thus, the not-quite-ripe ones I use tend to taste more like a potato than a banana. Just a hint of sweetness.

Previously I've tried to use plantains to make mofongo -- or some approximation thereof. It's close to the mashed potato/plantain combo they serve at John's Tex Mex.

This past weekend I used plantains to make a pastelon. That's basically a lasagna with fried plantains instead of lasagna noodles. The Noshery's website is very helpful in making this, though I just sort of dumped fried plantain strips, seasoned with cumin, then Sazon seasoned ground beef, then whatever cheese we had on top of each other. And even that turned out awesome.

The next day I used the rest of our plantains in a curry. Phenomenal as well. You can not go wrong with the plantain, I'm tellin' ya.

Monday, September 28, 2009

Crazy or Crazy-Awesome?



Basil, tomato, and mozzarella ice cream?

Frozen Caprese salad. Found in Hong Kong.

Fall Dinner

Sorry for the week-long blogvacay, but I had the swine flu, believe or not (the Boy chooses not to). Anyway, before I languished away on milkshakes and daytime television last week, I was feeling very flush with fall spirit. With all the crispness in the air, we hit the farmer's market and got to work in the kitchen. I made French Onion Soup, and the Boy grilled some pork tenderloin. For dessert, tarte aux pommes (apple tart).

The French Onion Soup was from our old Better Homes and Gardens cookbook. Pure nostalgia. Start with 3 large sweet onions, finely chopped. Then add 1/2 stick of butter. Let the onions sweat it out about 20 to 25 minutes, until transluscent. Add in around 4 cans of beef stock. And a few squirts of Worchestershire sauce. Around 1/4 tsp. Salt and pepper to taste. Let simmer, around 30 minutes or more.

Cut slices of a baguette, toast with shredded Gruyere (or Swiss) cheese atop. Then place "croutons" on the soup once poured into bowls or crocks. Add more cheese and broil the whole thing for a few minutes until cheese is melted and browned.

Once the soup and pork were ready, we headed out to the front porch. A little pinot noir, some sliced local Macoun apple, some Vermont sharp white cheddar, some baguette slices from Little Bakery, and the sliced pork. Quite a crudite platter. Then the soup, with toasted baguette slices acting as croutons for the Gruyere cheese. Very fall and very yum.

So yum, in fact, we didn't even make it to the apple tart. But now that I'm back to solid foods, I discovered the tart, when toasted a bit, drizzled with local raw honey and sprinkled with ground cinnamon, is a fantastic breakfast too.
Tarte Aux Pommes
2 large baking apples (like Macoun) cored, then very, very thinly sliced
1 sheet of frozen puff pastry (they usually come 2 to a box)
1/4 cup of butter
1/4 cup of brown sugar
Defrost the puff pastry and prepare according to the box directions (I know, I know, you can make your own pastry too). For mine, you just unrolled the pastry, let it defrost, pierced it all over with a fork, and let it sit in the fridge for 20 minutes or so.
Then you can cut the dough into a circle the size of your pie plate if you'd like. I just left mine as a sheet on a cookie sheet since it seemed like it wanted to tear and I wanted to make a big tart anyway (overzealous apple slicing). I placed the apple sliced decoratively on the pastry, then topped with little shavings of the cold butter and sprinkled the brown sugar. You can add your own spices too. Then cooked at 375 for 15 minutes or until the edges of pastry begin to brown. Very very simple and it retains the apple flavor unlike sugary, syrupy apple pies.






Friday, September 18, 2009

Pink Bakery Boxes


This article on Serious Eats answers a question I didn't even know I had.
You know how in the movies, people always have pink boxes for birthday cakes or pastries? Yet, growing up in the South, I never once saw a pink box from a bakery. No matter how much I wished for one, because it just seemed more sophisticated, or at least frivolous. I always just assumed there were some fancy schmancy bakeries out there that I never frequented (and there are, to be sure).
Anyway, Serious Eats enlightened me that pink bakery boxes actually came from Winchell's, which is a not-so-nice-actually-sort-of-divey SoCal doughnut chain. Heh. Apparently, a bunch of transplanted Cambodians went to work there fleeing the Khmer Rouge and somehow got the boxes changed from white because white is the color of mourning. Also, in a moment of sad reality about corporations and the creation of an air of desiriability about a product: they went with pink because it was cheaper and because grease stains don't show as well. Sigh. Such is the way of all vestiges of hauteur fed to us by Hollywood.

Five Guys Burgers and Fries

Largely due to the fact that Bentucci's is renovating their restaurant, the Boy and I found ourselves in Pittsford Plaza on a quest for dinner. On our way to dropping $20 a piece on our glutfest at the Wegmans buffet, I was confronted with a fact that had escaped my memory: Five Guys Burgers and Fries had opened in the PP about a month ago. So we headed over to check it out.

First thought, I love a place with so few options. Really. I hate when places try to anticipate nearly every type of diner inclination and serve nachos next to pasta next to steak next to Chinese (yes, it happens). A jack-of-all-trades is a master of none. In My Perfect Dining World, places would limit themselves to ten items or less. Do them well and people will either be open to the singular experience the chef/cook is crafting or know to skip out because they're not into it. This is really the whole philosophy behind prix fixe meals.

The Boy's first thought was the boldness of having so many boxes of peanuts in their shells lying around, considering the dangers of peanut allergy reactions (how is he the one thinking like a lawyer?).

I ordered the cheeseburger with everything, plus jalapenos. My norm when confronting any new burger is to order it "all the way." The Boy got the bacon cheeseburger with grilled mushrooms and grilled onions and barbeque sauce. We got an order of the cajun fries too. (Sidenote: someone ordered right before us and left to go run an errand before picking up their food. This apparently confounded the staff, which quickly went from a friendly "Order Up" to a Gestapo-like: "You there, what's your number? Are you sure? Are we sure it's 86 instead of 88? How can this be?" I almost ate the woman's food out of fear and guilt for it not being mine.)

So this place definitely trades in nostalgia (a la Johnny Rocket's or Steak and Shake or even Sonic). Once you order, you get a number, you get your fountain drink, and you wait for your food to come packed in a bag, regardless if you're just taking over to the tables on the other end of the room. The tables were a little littered when we were there, which reminded me of eating off picnic tables. They definitely wanted to bare bones in the decor and set up. Really commited to the idea of fast food and no frills and all that. Except with a nice long list of toppings to make up for only having burgers, hot dogs (and one grilled cheese which I'm sure is American cheese in a hamburger bun).

Five Guys has quite the reputation of being the best burger around. They make sure you're aware of this fact by plastering the walls with articles and quotes from The Washingtonian and the Long Island local paper, etc.

I have to say the meat quality was excellent. The bun could have better and could have been toasted. There definitely could have been less raw onions (coarsely chopped) involved -- but then again, I really shouldn't have ordered both raw and grilled onions (probably best not to go "all the way" here). The cheese was just American cheese. Basically everything here was good in the most basic sense of what a fast food cheeseburger is. Like a particularly good Wendy's, minus the drive-through. Except the medium-cut, skin-on fries, with Cajun spices, where much much better than Wendy's (which always mysteriously need salt, despite the fact that I don't add salt to anything else ever).

Oh, also of note: the regular is a double. I guess the little burgers are human-sized. Still, I ate the whole thing. And will probably skip all meals today because of it.

All in all, it reminded me of In and Out (a place I was never rabid about unlike most other Southern Californians). Of course, In and Out also has the gimmick of a secret menu, and milkshakes. And the burger's flavor also kept reminding of something I couldn't quite put my finger on, something that was buried so far deep that it was almost subconscious -- until this morning. It really tasted a lot like Rush's in Columbia, South Carolina (which used to be my favorite restaurant of all time). Of course, Rush's burgers are even better with their milkshakes. Moral of the story: start making shakes, Five Guys.

Not even close to Steak and Shake. But then again, Steak and Shake isn't even close to Rochester.


ADDENDUM: Just minutes after I posted this, Village Voice's food blog named Five Guys #6 in the ranking of the Best Fries in New York City.

Ming's

Ming's, at 1038 S. Clinton in Southwedge, has been consistently ranked as some of the best Chinese in town. So the other day, when the weather started to turn cooler and we were both feeling worn down and fluish to make something and too sweaty from working out to eat anywhere nice (like Chen Garden), we decided to try out a new place for some old familiar comfort food.

I ordered the General Tso's, the Boy got Bourbon Chicken. We each got fried rice and we also split a large Egg Drop soup. Once we'd ordered in the teensy restaurant, I decided it was best to air ourselves out outside rather than torture the other diners unfortunate enough to share our post-workout space. After about 15 minutes, our food was ready. And unfortunately, during that 15 minutes we did watch a lot of it being prepared -- which included at least 5 minutes of The Boy's Bourbon Chicken sitting on the very side of the cooking space while Larry, one of the cooks, cleaned out a wok, splashing water and whatever cleaning product ponderously close to the Boy's food. We'll just assume with such an open kitchen, free for all to inspect, that Larry really knows what he's doing and the Boy's plate was hygenically sound. He's still alive at any rate.

My General Tso's was a little goopy, with maybe not enough sauce on some parts (to remind you of the huge amount of breading that's involved) and then of course, tons at the bottom of the container. It was a passing Chinese dish, nothing great, and unfortunately served to remind me of how unnatural some of my favorite Chinese dishes are. Of course it looks nothing like what they serve in China, and it also looks nothing like anything that came out of a farm or the natural world (except the sliced bell pepper which tasted pretty fresh). Lots of breading, fryer oil, white sugar, and red dye.

The Boy ordered Bourbon Chicken largely because he wanted to avoid the things I just mentioned -- he didn't want something fried. The bite I tasted was just like any other mall Chinese/Japanese/Cajun outpost. Nothing remarkable, but not altogether disappointing either. Same for the fried rice, passable at best. No egg that I found, scant veggies, decent amounts of pork. Not much to remember really.

The egg drop soup couldn't hold a candle to Chen's (which always has a distinct soy sauce flavor that I've never seen anywhere else). It was too gelantious -- and being as I'm not a fan of eggs, this is a very disturbing quality. Too much of a semi-solid for me, without any depth of flavor, just a pepperiness. The Boy equated it to some kind of military-hospital-refugee camp substance used to keep people alive and to avoid malnutrition.

I'm not sure about the relationship this Ming's has with New Ming's on Monroe, but for my money, New Ming's is a much much better quality restaurant. It certainly (after the remodel) attempts to be a higher level -- with wine and beer, fancier dishes, brown rice, etc. I'm all for occasionally trips into the down and dirty, especially when it means you get something really tasty, but not in this case.

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Dinner with the Band



IFC has a new series debuting Nov. 24 called Dinner with the Band. They just announced their line-up yesterday. Appearing with Tailor chef/owner Sam Mason (who may be the former owner by then), will be Les Savy Fav, Kid Sister and Flosstradamus, and Sharon Jones & the Dap-Kings. Having seen all of these bands/DJs live, I think this has the makings of a great series. Though having seen the guy from Les Savy Fav shirtless at Coachella, I am less enthusiastic about the idea of watching him cook/eat and that heightening my desire to do the same.

Crazy or Crazy Awesome


I'm all for peanut butter as its own food group, and darn, if this pad thai doesn't look downright mouthwatering. I just can't quite get there mentally.

Friday, September 11, 2009

The killer is in the kitchen


If you're British, chances are you've been injured by a biscuit (aka a cookie, not one of those buttery breakfast things). Seriously, 25 million of them have the wounds to show for it (or possibly the headstone). Turns out these Custard Cremes were rated the most dangerous.

So irrelevant for most of us, but be on guard if you're traveling in the British Isles, or having tea at a Briton's house. And, for the love of God, somebody warn all those Old Toad employees!

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Happy Birthday Mario Batali


My favorite chef from the olden days of Food Network (back when actual chefs did it),
and the man who was wearing those dreadful crocs way before anyone else (and also wore bright orange before that other chubby guy with the food show) turns 49 today.
Buon Compleanno, Fanta Pants!

Thursday, September 3, 2009

Cake Wrecks

I'm going to a wedding this weekend, so I hope I'm not garnering any bad karma for Choley when I post my new favorite blog: Cake Wrecks.

So. Painfully. Hilariable.

Here's a funny profile of the site's creator as well.

Top Chef Thoughts

So, as is the case with most reality television, I'm a bit late getting on the bandwagon for Top Chef. But thanks to Bravo constantly airing the previous season and Top Chef: Masters, we've finally gotten hooked. Well, not hooked as in love-it-can't-miss-it (a la Mad Men or Gossip Girl), more like these-people-are-so-annoying-but-worth-the-fifteen-seconds-of-interesting-culinary-creativity-and-seeing-someone-totally-ripped-by-judges.

Since the guys at Village Voice gave the go-ahead to start bitching about the show, I figured I'd fall in line.

First, like all reality television, there is lots of moving camera work, spliced with talking head moments from the contestants. Pretty much unmodified from The Real World. The scenes are ridiculously over-edited to create any sense of drama or conflict. Cooking within tiny windows of time with restricted amounts of ingredients in unfamiliar settings isn't exciting enough -- you have to get interpersonal up in here, too.

Secondly, though this fake drama is totally a hallmark of the milleu, somehow TC totally doesn't follow up on the other, more watchable, hallmark: all the fake/real/meta drama that happens when all these people are living in a house together. They never show that much house time! I keep thinking -- (a) chefs drink a lot as a profession (and as evidenced in their "vices" quickfire challenge), (b) they are in LAS VEGAS (where anything scandalous can and will occur at every hour of every day), (c) if I did my math right, there are 5 chefs to a room. 5! So it has to at least be a whiskey filled slumber party, if not the very essence of a co-ed dorm. Yet the only shot we had this season was of Ashley and Jenn writing in journals. Boooring. Seriously, America's Next Top Model brings about 195% more drama and it's just girls under that roof. Get out of the pool and go bring home some strippers and illegal drugs! Geez. Can't someone spin a teensy bit out of control for our entertainment?

Third, yeah the on-show marketing sucks, as do the very frequent commercials that allow 15 minutes of real action stretch out for over an hour (PS - why did the show go off at like 11:12 pm last night - are there no rules in television programming? It's not like it was packed to the gills with events). But my biggest ick factor is the fact that Tom and Padma both seem to be down with shilling virtually any corporation they come across in their down time. Doing a show as a chef/judge/competitor/personality is pretty much admitting that you can't hack the kitchen hours and you want to make some bank. Fine, you're allowed. But you gotta be on the show and then the Diet Coke or Pantene commercial following? Don't be greedy, kids. (Ok, Padma gets a pass because I honestly don't know what else she could be doing with her life beyond hair modeling. Watching her ex, Salman Rushdie, hit on every 20 year old at Butter, I guess).

Fourth, Gail. I can't decide. She can be dorkily honest -- plus 1. She doesn't seem to mind being the not-unbelievably-hot-one -- plus 2. She can be kind of panties-in-a-bunch about stuff -- minus 1. And while she's not the obvious "Vanna White" component, she does tend to throw the boobs out unnecessarily, which can undermine her credibility and at the very least isn't fair when all we see of anyone else is the white chef coat -- minus 1. I guess I'm coming out slightly in favor of Gail.

Fifth, the contestants [spoiler alert]: Kevin is going to win. Called it. He's awesome and he's so cool about not trying to talk smack but clearly being super-talented and down to earth. Love him. Jess will self implode because she's committed to failing and cannot get her lady balls together enough to do anything right. There's just too many other massive fails to have her weeded out yet, but obvis she's Donzo Washington. The whole Michael/Brian sibling rivalry is vaguely interesting and I really hope that comes to a head because their relationship is two things: bizz. are. (PS - strange how they haven't seen each --even Christmas?!? -- for like 9 years but then they both got all goopy over lil Sis in the Air Force. Just falling into the patriotic trap that everyone else did?). Jen seems like a huge bia but thinks she clearly deserves the win b/c Eric Ripert hired her. For his Philadelphia restaurant, sweetie. Deflate yourself a bit. Though this episode showed she's capable of being the Big Bad Boss...duh. Ron, oh Ron. You're delightful in a William Hung kind of way. Not exactly operating on all 6 cylinders, are we? Maybe that's the editing, but he's pretty much Mush-mouth, and I have serious doubts that he's processing the strictures of the challenges (clam chowder in the Nevada desert, his vice is that he took a boat from the Dominican?)

Ashley is my second-favorite, especially since she avoided lip service re: military service (and conversely, avoided making it another "gay issue" like marriage was last week). She also avoided totally bitching out Preeti, who deserved it for dumping the asparagus in her gnocchi water. Totally justified to go all Gordon Ramsey on her for that. Robin apparently later tries to cash in the Cancer Ticket, which could be cool. Eli is slightly under the radar but appears to have his stuff. Big ups ATL this season! That Mike guy -- who is SO L.A. I can't even stand it, and is top candidate for the much-needed drug addiction storyline -- is going to be the second guy out after Ron. Boy has way too much confidence and no skillz. Hector will follow closely behind Mike, though he might be a sleeper. Ash is great, love the sass. There is nothing finer than making a disasterous melty ice cream and having some high falutin' chef eat it up as a custard with a nice texture! Ha! Ash even had the decency to smother his laughter after getting lauded. Who's left? Well, doesn't matter. They must be boring.

To finish on a political rant, however, all the people of color have been or shortly will be voted off. Three chicks are gone. Only one girl has ever one in the previous 5 seasons. Kinda still a white man's world huh? And an urbanite's world too, of course. I'm also vaguely irritated that there's no real mention of shopping local, slow food, anything like that. If you want to win you gotta go for the pork belly or foie gras, and smother it in creme fraiche and wine or something. If you can work in the molecular gastronomy stuff that will probably get a win too. So trendy and so unevironmentally conscious. Let's see something sustainable and green for a change (except for all that plastic courtesy of the Glad family of products of course).

If you missed the episode (or others in the future), look for recaps at NY Magazine and Village Voice. I promise no more recaps here.

Wednesday, September 2, 2009

Tony D's Pizza

Tony D's coal fired pizza has been in Corn Hill Landing for awhile now. We went there not long after seeing a review in City Newspaper. I wasn't that wild about it at the time. If memory recalls, I had the carciofi -- artichoke -- pizza. This was before they had their liquor license and maybe they were just figuring stuff out. (Also, it was raining and I almost died slidding on their slick floors in my boots).

Well, after a few raves from friends (and after running out of any other casual Italian places to try), we visited again last week. I don't know if it was just happenstance but this time the food was much much better. The pizza is crispy and the portions are huge.

We started with a meatball appetizer. The meat quality could have been better, and I wasn't wild on the sauce, but the balls were huge and satisfying. (that's what she said). The sauce tasted just like tomatoes, but it did have a certain brightness. I would have liked something thicker, but it worked.

We then each got pizzas: I had the special and the Boy had the Vognole -- clams. The Vognole had clams, garlic, parsley -- all the usual clam pie contenders. Doesn't hold a candle to Pepe's of course, but it was balanced and satisfying. I think it's my favorite on the regular menu. Maybe some of my initial hesitation about loving the restaurant stems from the fact that nothing really grabs me on the menu, despite my rather broad-ranging love of pizza toppings. I was debating to make my own (although half of the great toppings aren't available on the make your own list) when the waitress shared with us the specials.

The special pizza that night was spinach, Italian sausage, garlic and ricotta. Why, yes please! Had I not gotten that last-minute option, I might not have had such an enthusiastic reaction. Always trust in the specials, people!


It would be remiss of me not to mention that they do now have their alcohol license. They have a decent stock of bottled beers (including Peroni in keeping with the Italian theme). And their wine list is rather extensive and of average price. I had been meaning to try a Primativo and was elated to find one by the glass for $8. It ended up being a little too drab with too quick a finish, but at least I got to give it a try!

One day I will have to also give their desserts a try -- the cannoli and the HUGE chocolate mousse cake both looked fantastic!

Tuesday, September 1, 2009

Hubby Hubby


Taste of Texas


Taste of Texas, in downtown Spencerport, was recently reviewed by City Newspaper's food critic, James Leach. The Boy was overwhelmed with excitement when he first heard there was a new barbeque joint for us to try -- and one that received a rave review. So the other weekend we headed over to Spencerport, which is one of those downtowns chock full of "what a cute ___" places -- ice cream shops, waterfront bars, etc.

The good press was definitely helping out TofT because there were already people waiting when we got there, a few minutes before they opened the door at 1pm on Sunday. And about a dozen more came in by the time we were done. The service was very quick -- mostly because you order and the bar and the waiter/bartender/cowboy shoots the order down a zip line to the kitchen, where the alligator clip it's clamped to charmingly hits a cowbell. Perfect!

The food comes right out (or at least when you're there right after opening), and you pick it up, along with your fountain drinks, (beer, of which they have a large selection, is handed over at the cash register), sauces, soups if you ordered it, and even free loaf bread. I really liked that, as most no-frills (aka "legit") bbq places just provide loaf bread and nothing else.
I ordered pulled pork because the review said it was phenomenal. My two sides were fried okra and baked beans. The Boy had ribs, with Aunt Carla's broccoli and cheese and Aunt Nancy's cheesy potato. His complaint were that the two were perhaps a little too cheesy, cold, and heavy -- more in line with a school cafeteria casserole. I'd point out that maybe one shouldn't get two different side dishes with the word cheese in them. However, my fried okra was a bit of a disappointment as well. I was perhaps overly optimistic that it would be traditional Southern fried okra, battered by hand in the restaurant. Unfortunately, it was more in line with some kind of chain restaurants "poppers" or "bites" -- too much batter and not enough flavor. My spirits took a major nosedive when the waitress asked me if I wanted ranch dressing to go with my okra.

Both the ribs and the pulled pork measured up pretty close to Dino and Sticky Lips (although the pulled pork looked greasy, it mysteriously actually wasn't). The barbeque sauce was really, really good. A great match of sweet and spicy for my personal palate. However, the pork had definitely been dressed in the sauce with a generous hand. As were the ribs. I am an unabashed devotee of barbeque sauce, but this was a little much even for me. I think a word of caution for future visitors would be order sides that are acidic -- like the vinegar-dressed coleslaw. Fried and cheesy didn't seem to cut the sauciness, and while the baked beans were phenomenal -- the highlight -- with real bacon mixed in, they were too close in flavor to the sauce. My poor mouth just needed something different after awhile.